Bonnie Koo
whole start-up planning phase, but we have decided what our asset allocation will be and what our accounts are.
You'll see how I invested my money last year here, but in summary:
- 55% US stocks:
- VIIIX: Vanguard Institutional Index Fund Institutional Plus Shares 0.02%
- VIEIX: Vanguard Extended Market Index Fund Institutional Shares 0.12%
- 20% International stocks:
- VFWSX: Vanguard FTSE All-World ex-US Index Fund Institutional Shares 0.11%
- 10% Small cap value:
- VISVX: Vanguard Small-Cap Value Index Fund 0.2%
- 8% REITs:
- VGSIX: Vanguard REIT Index Fund Investor Shares 0.26%
- 7% Bonds:
- VBMPX: Vanguard Total Bond Market Index Fund Institutional Plus Shares 0.05%
Now there is a “we”, and we have decided to follow our FP's advice to go 100% equities to maximize growth. We moved all of M's 4 accounts (mix of old work IRAs, 401(k)s into one solo-401(k) at TD Ameritrade. He had 1099 income in 2016 and the solo-K was opened in December 2016. TDA allows Roth 401(k) so we opted to make his 2016 contributions Roth (small amount though since his 1099 income wasn't substantial). He had a small amount contributed to his W2 job's 401(k) in 2016 but he became unemployed relatively early in the year. He also contributed to a Roth IRA for 2016 (his first time) as well this year, and he'll do 2017 in short order.
I'm still doing what I did last year – contributing the full $18,000 each to the 403(b) and 457(b) and $5,500 to a Roth IRA (already funded for 2017). I also have the option to do the “Mega Backdoor Roth IRA” (to be covered in a future post), but have not gone there yet. We don't have a taxable account (yet). Our IPS with our FP has the following asset allocation:
- 68% US stocks
- 17% Large cap growth, 17% Large cap value
- 17% Small cap growth, 17% Small cap value
- 24% International stocks
- 12% Large cap developed countries
- 12% Diversified emerging markets
- 8% US REITs
You'll see that it's not that different from my original, with the subtraction of bonds. There is no mid cap category since mid caps are a fuzzy category. In M's solo-401(k), the details are:
| iShare Core S&P Small-Cap | 17% | IJR |
| Vanguard Dividend Appreciation ETF | 17% | VIG |
| Vanguard FTSE Developed Markets ETF | 12% | VEA |
| Vanguard FTSE Emerging Markets ETF | 12% | VWO |
| Vanguard High Dividend Yield ETF | 17% | VYM |
| Vanguard REIT ETF | 8% | VNQ |
| Vanguard Small-Cap Growth ETF | 17% | VBK |
This account is managed by our FP. I still manage my work's 403(b) and 457(b) and I'm still managing my Roth IRA at Vanguard, but I may let them manage the Roth IRA at some point. I also plan to open up my own solo-401(k) this year. My allocation is a little bit different than what our IPS states but not too far off:
| Vanguard Institutional Index Fund (large caps) | 40% | VIIIX |
| Vanguard Extended Market Index Fund (small & mid caps) | 20% | VIEIX |
| Vanguard FTSE All-World ex-US Index Fund | 12% | VFWSX |
| Lazard Emerging Markets | 12% | LZEMX |
| Vanguard Small-Cap Value Index Fund | 8% | VSIAX |
| Vanguard REIT Index Fund | 8% | VGSIX |
The small cap and REIT funds are in my Roth IRA. The rest are in my 403(b) and 457(b). We will rebalance the accounts once a year. We have not fully decided how much we will put away for investments this year at this time. There are some moving parts right now making it challenging to project how much we will be able to put away outside of maxing out available tax-advantaged retirement pots.
What is your asset allocation for 2017?
Monet's lilies @ Musée de l'Orangerie, Paris, France[/caption] This is a very frequent question and topic on the finance blogs. I like how the White Coat Investor made a nice and easy to follow order of things. Basically pay off any consumer debt and other high interest loans first. Then he prioritizes saving for retirement over lower interest loans. Then in this post he says most docs should have their loans paid off within 5 years of graduating. I've struggled with how fast I should be paying off my student loans. If I really wanted to, I could wipe them out in 3 years (possibly less with bonuses) but would require more than a decent amount of sacrifice. How awesome would it be to be student loan free in < 3 years? I've changed my mind countless times about this. At least I was maxing out all of my available tax-advantaged accounts while flip-flopping. Currently, I fully fund my job's 403(b) (+ generous employer contribution), 457(b), and a backdoor Roth IRA. This amounts to $62,300 this year. I don't have a taxable account yet. I think for the average physician (although even this definition is quickly changing) who becomes an attending physician around age 30 (and funded a Roth IRA during residency) the WCI's general plan is a good one to follow. For folks like me however, who became an attending much later in life (38)- I've lost valuable time. Remember, time is a huge part of how compound interest works. If you have less time, then you need more money (saved) to make up for it. The same could be said for folks who have children and other priorities that require money. This late in the game, brute savings is what will get me to financial independence. Instead of the suggested 20% saved for docs, I need to save at least 30%. I recently took advantage of First Republic Bank's amazingly low interest rates for student loan refinancing. This forced me into a 5 year maximum pay off period with a fixed interest rate of 2.25%. I'm ok with that. I also have another $80K loan with my mom and will pay this off in < 5 years. What am I doing with my “extra” cashflow? Saving. We hope to start a family soon and will need to pay for childcare and the kid him/herself. NYC daycare can be between $2,000-$3,000 a month easily! We also need to beef up our emergency fund with more at stake. M and I have picked $5 million as our FI number. We probably don't need that much. I prefer to save more, just in case, to be prepared for medical costs, possible long term care etc. Picking $5 million puts us in the position to help our children and our parents too if need arises and still remain secure. We want to get there in 20 years (2037) or less. Not a small feat. The first milestone – the first million – is set for June 1, 2023. I'll let you know how that's going year to year. What do you think? How fast are you paying off your loans? Have you picked your FI number? Comment below.]]>
This is part 3 in a series of posts on Financial Advisors.

Part 1 covered the license designations an FA can and should have. Part 2 covered how FAs should get paid. Part 4 – How to find and vet a financial advisor Part 5 – I fired my financial advisor Today, we’re going to discuss another area of confusion – when you think you want a financial advisor but what you really need is a financial planner. Wait, aren’t they the same thing? All financial planners are financial advisors. But very few financial advisors (FAs) are financial planners (FPs). Most FAs don’t do much but manage your retirement funds. A financial planner incorporates your savings and retirement funds into your overall plan, but only as one of the necessary components needed to help you meet your goals. In other words, your portfolio is not a financial plan! The term Financial Advisor is part of the problem. Most people are looking for a Financial Planner, not an FA. It’s partially semantics, but most FAs seem to be mainly portfolio managers ± commissioned salesmen. Building a proper portfolio and managing it is actually quite simple and takes little time once a year once set up. Really. It boggles me that people are paying someone 1% or more to do this and nothing else. OK, so maybe you don’t understand how to invest (index funds, stocks, real estate, etc.) – you won’t do badly by following a simple portfolio that the Bogleheads recommends or try one of these portfolios until you learn more. Let’s look at it in familiar terms:
- A typical financial advisor is like a doctor who always writes the same prescription to every patient. No history, no vitals, no work up and no follow up.
- A financial planner, on the other hand, never prescribes without a complete history (your money history and habits – your psychology) and work-up. Expect to spend the first several meetings with your FP to delve into you and your goals and then together, develop the right plan for you.
To break it down into more detail, what can you expect when you hire a fee-only financial planner? Here is what s/he will do for you:
- Clarify goals. Sure, we all want to retire at some point but, what about between now and your retirement? What happens after you retire? What does “being retired” mean to you? A financial planner will help you have these conversations and ask the “what if?” questions such as “What kind of lifestyle do you plan in retirement?”, “How much do you plan to save for your kids’ college?”, “Do you plan to work part-time at some point?” and so forth.
- Coordinate your financial decisions with your taxes. A financial planner, especially one who is a CPA, is trained to help you minimize taxes as they include tax planning in your ongoing plan.
- Make sure your assets are PROTECTED. This includes a review of not just your insurance policies but a discussion about other areas in your life that may be exposed, such as side businesses, your legal documents, things your kids may be involved in, property, etc.
- Discuss your cash flow (a fancy term for budgeting). If you find that you and your significant other are having trouble seeing eye-to-eye with your spending habits, having an impartial planner to mediate can help you work on a realistic spending plan. Seeing as many arguments between significant others revolve around money this also will help the longer-term health of your relationship.
- Help you adjust for course corrections. How often does living in the now distract one from their goals? Financial planning is not a report you get once a year. Your planner is engaged in your life so that when you get pregnant, change jobs, buy a new house, move your parents into assisted living, etc. your planner is there to adjust your projections and help you absorb the impact on both your short- and long-term plans. This allows you to make course corrections early when it can make the most difference for the long term. Taking a few extra shifts now or driving your car a couple of years longer while you’re in your 30s and 40s is a lot easier to swallow than finding out you’re way behind on your retirement goals when you’re bumping up on age 60!
- Remind you of your goals when you start to veer off course. Almost all (or ALL?) investing mistakes are due to behavior (selling during market corrections for example) and having an FP there to stop you is priceless. Almost all of us will want to veer off course at some point.
- See into the future! Yes, a financial planner will take a look at how you are spending your money today, your goals, your savings habits, your work habits and your retirement benefits and project your chances of being able to have that bungalow on the beach with the little umbrella drink at age 55. Sure, it’s an educated guess, but having a guide is very motivating.
- You and the FP will create a financial plan that will guide you on decisions. Of course, the plan is dynamic and will change over time. Circumstances and goals change more often than you think.
To sum things up, a good financial planner will go over your financial house with a fine-toothed comb. Real financial planning is not cheap and you must be willing to dedicate time and energy to the process – it is your money and your future, after all! I consider full service financial planning a luxury service. I see a lot of people asking isolated questions such as “Should I max out my 401(k) or pay down my loans?” “Should I pay down my student loans first or buy a home?” This is a symptom that there is no financial plan. They are asking for a temporary Band-Aid instead of a true assessment of their needs and a well thought out prescription or financial plan. A good FP will teach you as well instead of blindly taking care of your finances. You need to have a baseline knowledge base to get the most out of this relationship. Here is a sample start-up agenda that a good FP will go through with you. Next, is the the next part of this series. What do you think? Did you know that financial planners did all this and more?
44 million borrowers owe over $1.5 trillion as of 2019. And we know medical school loans are especially high. So how do you take off some of the pressure? Look for better interest rates! If you live near First Republic Bank, you can use them to refinance for a better student loan rate. Here's how I took advantage of what First Republic Bank offers and how you can do the same, plus snag $200!
How to Refinance with First Republic Bank
First things first. Check your location. Do you live in one of the cities marked above?- New York City
- Greenwich, CT
- Portland, OR
- Palm Beach, FL
- Various cities in Northern and Southern Calfornia
OK, so what's the catch?
You must:- Live near a physical branch.
- Meet their salary requirements and may need a certain % of your debt liquid in your main checking account.
- Open a checking account with them and use it as your main checking. That means your main source of income must be direct deposited there.
- Maintain a minimum balance of $3,500 a month and you must auto-debit the loan payment from this account.
- Pass a credit check.
More Considerations When You Refinance with First Republic Bank
- The minimum loan is $40,000 and the maximum is $300,000.
- Their checking account refunds ATM fees!
- They will refund you up to 2% of paid interest if you pay back the loan in 2 years!
- If you get approved for this loan but move away from a physical branch, this does not affect the loan as long as you keep your primary checking account with them.
How Do I Get Started?
This is an amazing deal if you meet their requirements. If you're ready to take the plunge, contact Kerry Berchtold at kberchtold at firstrepublic dot com or 339-235-0419. Don’t forget to mention Miss Bonnie MD to get your $200 once you’re approved!Final Thoughts on Refinancing with First Republic Bank
In March 2017, First Republic Bank approved my refinance! I chose the 5-year term at 2.25% fixed for $88,000 of my loans. My strategy was to”force” myself into a 5-year repayment, since I do my best financially when things are automated. If you're ready to tackle your student loans and you want to refinance to lower your interest rates, reach out to First Republic Bank today.]]>Stephanie Pearson, MD, FACOG, an ob-gyn turned disability insurance broker for Women Physicians. How? After sustaining a career changing injury during a difficult patient delivery, Stephanie became quite passionate about physician disability insurance and risk management planning. In this post, we hope to demystify disability insurance and convince you why you need it!
Note: Pearson Ravitz is a sponsor of the 2024 Money & Wellness Conference.
Your ability to make a great income is one of your greatest assets. Have you considered how a serious illness or accident could jeopardize your financial security?
As a physician, I definitely have seen things change in a blink of an eye – a new cancer diagnosis, a car accident, or a fall to name a few. You're much more likely to use disability insurance than life insurance and you know I always recommend insuring against the 4 financial catastrophes: Death, disability, liability and divorce.
Why would you not want to protect that asset with disability insurance? Here are the top causes of disability, in descending order:
- Musculoskeletal
- Cancer
- Accidents
- Mental disorders
- Cardiovascular
The issue with disability insurance is that disability is very gray and subjective. With life insurance, you're either dead or alive. There is no “time of disability” like there is a “time of death.”
The three things Stephanie Pearson hears most as reasons not to obtain private disability insurance:
- “It won’t happen to me.”
- “I am healthy. I have no family history.”
- “I have coverage through work.”
It happens, and it happens a lot.
According to the Labor of Statistics, one in seven people will suffer a disability requiring time off from work during their working years. The average disability lasts from 3-5 years.
Can you afford to have no income for that long especially if you are the breadwinner for your family?
Many illnesses are NOT genetic. Many cancers and other illnesses do not discriminate. Accidents are called accidents for a reason. Stephanie certainly never thought a patient kick would end her clinical career.
And as a woman physician, disability insurance has some special considerations as discussed below.
Group Coverage is Often Inferior
Coverage through work is often not as much as one believes. When Stephanie asks clients if they know what the coverage through their employer truly is, she is met with blank stares or silence (on the phone). Group benefits are certainly better than nothing; however, there are typically many shortcomings or holes. Stephanie’s did not cover work related injuries – so she was denied benefits.
Often, group benefits are paid for by the employer, which makes the benefit taxable income. There is often a maximum benefit (i.e. 50% to 15K). Many employees are unaware of the max, and falsely believe that more of their income is covered.
Also, it is often only the base salary that is covered, not bonuses, teaching stipends, etc. which DO count as part of your compensation package.
Group policies are typically “Own Occupation” (see below for definition) for 2-3 years, and then switch to “Any Occupation.” You do not want to be told that you can teach, consult, or answer phones. There are often many exclusions and stipulations to group benefits that make them far inferior to private individual plans.
Most importantly, most group plans are often NOT portable. Very few physicians start and end their careers in one place. Many find themselves unable to secure good coverage if they leave one job only to find out the next one does not offer benefits. They are now older and potentially have more morbidities.
How to Buy Disability Insurance for Women Physicians
Ok, so now you may be convinced that you need to look into getting some.
Let's go over how to buy a disability insurance policy.
- Determine how much disability insurance you need
When you buy a policy, the policy amount is by monthly income replacement. This monthly income benefit is tax-free provided you pay for it with after-tax dollars (vs. deducting from your taxes – generally not recommended). You won't be able to recover 100% of your income (the underwriting company doesn't want you to be more valuable disabled than working). Each carrier has a participation limit usually around $17,000/month. For the really high earners, you may need to have more than one policy with more than one carrier.
How much do you need? That answer is very person specific. Are you the sole provider, primary or secondary provider, or do you have an equal double income household? What are your fixed expenses? What could you live without? All carriers have an algorithm to determine your qualifying benefit. The factors that go into this number are your salary, other earned income, and other group or personal benefits currently owned.
The magic number for what you need, usually falls somewhere in the 60-80% of your pre-tax income. Remember, your private benefits are tax-free income. I always tell people, just because you qualify for “X” does not mean you have to purchase “X.” You need to figure out what your family would need if you were not bringing in a paycheck in order to maintain your quality of living.
Keep in mind that even if your spouse makes enough for both of you, there may be extra costs associated with your disability like medications and care.
- Determine what riders you need
Almost everyone will need more than the barebones policy. Unfortunately, there is no standardization of language in the insurance industry. Carriers have similar riders with very different definitions, or the same concept called by different names. It is important to understand the definitions in each illustration that you review. The riders you should seriously consider (really, in my opinion, are “necessary”):
- Specialty specific or True Own Occupation – True own occupation stipulates that you are disabled if you can no longer perform “the material and substantial duties of your job”, regardless if you are gainfully employed. Some carriers will state that you can NOT be gainfully employed. This is a huge difference.
- Future Purchase Option – This allows you to purchase more insurance as your income grows.
- Non-Cancelable/Guaranteed Renewable – This means the company cannot cancel the policy on you and must guarantee that it can be renewed every year.
- Residual Disability – Aka partial disability. The policy will pay you a portion of your monthly benefit if you're partially disabled. Each carrier has a different definition. Again, the devil is in the details. An important note: there are more claims paid for residual/partial disabilities a year than total disability.
- Cost of Living Adjustment – This adjusts your payout to index for inflation. I would get this early in your career and cancel it about 10-15 years later.
- Catastrophic Coverage – This rider pays you an additional benefit in the event your disability leaves you unable to perform two of your activities of daily living (ADLs) without assistance or you are severely cognitively impaired. There are a few nuanced differences amongst the different carriers.
- Talk to an independent agent – someone who can broker from one of these companies: Guardian (Berkshire), Mass Mutual, Ameritas, Principal, Ohio National and Standard.
Met Life no longer issues new policies. I (Wealthy Mom MD) recommend you avoid any policy from Northwestern Mutual. They have an inferior definition of “Own Occupation” among other shortcomings. I recommend talking to at least two independent agents.
- Since women are more likely to be disabled than men (pregnancy related claims are on the rise) our premiums are higher than men. At least we get a break on life insurance !
Unfortunately, disability insurance is more expensive for women than men. Women are more likely than men to leave the workforce secondary to illness and injury, some in part to our ability to make babies. Men tend to die younger and more often at their own hands. Carriers are moving away from covering pregnancy at an alarming rate.
Things that are not viewed as an abnormal outcome of pregnancy by ob-gyns, are viewed that way by insurance carriers! Please secure coverage before your first attempted pregnancy. Recurrent miscarriages, infertility treatments, cesarean sections are all viewed as abnormal outcomes (!). Gestational diabetes, pre-eclampsia, postpartum hemorrhage, are as well.
You also may have heard that it's “cheaper” to purchase DI as a resident. This is only “true” because you'll be buying a smaller policy since you're not making attending income, as a resident you're part of a large hospital system offering institutional/group discount, and you’re younger. Women, look for a unisex policy to save on premiums. Principal offers one.
- Seriously consider purchasing life insurance if you don't have it already to save you another work-up.
You will likely need medical underwriting to determine your eligibility for DI. This involves blood work and a physical exam. These can also be used for life insurance so that you don't need to repeat this again if you apply for it within a year (generally speaking).
What You Also Need to Know
- If you're a woman, I strongly recommend purchasing this before you have children. If you wait until you're pregnant you may get dinged with an exclusion that any pregnancy related disability won't be covered, or you may develop a pregnancy related condition such as gestational diabetes that will ding your eligibility.
- The state you purchase DI matters. Everything is different in CA and FL. Texas also has some differences. Not only is coverage more expensive, but certain riders offered elsewhere are not offered there. CA has the highest premiums. If you are doing residency there, and staying there, then you have no choice. One way to get around this is to purchase disability insurance before moving to CA if your medical school is another state. Also, if you're doing residency in CA but know that you're moving to another state, you may want to wait until you move to the new state – or better yet, purchase a policy now in CA then get a new one when you move (then cancel the CA policy). Conversely, if you're training in one state and moving back to CA, definitely purchase a policy before moving!
- Disability insurance generally pays out after 90 days of disability (“elimination or waiting period”) and until age 65, so you'll need enough income replacement to save for retirement.
- Once you reach financial independence, you can cancel disability insurance.
- If you’re really trying to save on the premium cost two riders you can consider forgoing are: COLA and CAT. You can also extend the elimination period to 6 months or a year as well.
- Guardian is considered the “best” insurance carrier and the premiums reflect that. They have unlimited coverage for mental/addiction disorders. If this is not a deal-breaker for you (i.e. no personal or family history of mental disorders or substance abuse) then consider another carrier. Most other carriers have a two year limit.
My current policy is a $15,500 monthly benefit with Principal.
Bottom line: Be sure to reach out to an insurance agent to get started with obtaining your policy now. You cannot rely solely on your employer's policy.
is a proud sponsor of the 2024 Money & Wellness Conference for Women Physicians.
Part 1 covered the license designations an FA can and should have.
Part 3 – What's the difference between a financial advisor and planner?
Part 4 – How to find and vet a financial advisor
Part 5 – I fired my financial advisor
Today we’re going to talk about how FAs get paid. If you have an FA and you don’t know where every cent of your FA’s pay is coming from, then you may have a problem. In fact, I doubt you are working with a fee-only FA since they are in the minority.
Fee-only and fee-based sound almost identical – and the industry is counting on you not to know the difference! Fee-based FAs can be compensated by the client (you) but also by commissions from selling insurance products and/or loaded funds and/or referral kickbacks for referring you to another professional such as an insurance agent, etc. Fee-based financial advisors can be motivated to make recommendations that make them more money.
Common sense, right? In other words, fee-based FAs are not held to a fiduciary standard. Please note that just because an FA is fee-based does not mean they are “bad.” The analogy here is how most physicians are paid. As a dermatologist I do make more money if I do more procedures on you, but that doesn't mean I will just for my financial interest.
So, what is the fiduciary standard? It’s like the Hippocratic Oath for FAs: an oath that they (the FA) will put your interests ahead of theirs. By being a fiduciary they must disclose to you any potential conflict(s) of interest and be transparent about how they are paid. In contrast, fee-only FAs, are paid by only you, the client.
A fee-only FA cannot get paid by selling you insurance products or loaded mutual funds. These FAs are true “fiduciary” advisors. Fee-only FAs should always be willing to sign an agreement stating they are a fiduciary and will always act as a fiduciary in any financial transactions with you.
A good way to ensure a potential FA is fee-only is to see if they are a member of NAPFA, the National Association of Personal Financial Advisors. NAPFA is the most recognized national organization of true fee-only FAs. To qualify for NAPFA membership, the applicant must submit a financial plan for review, take an oath to be a fiduciary in all client relationships, and comply with annual continuing education requirements.
Not all true fee-only advisors are NAPFA members, but all NAPFA members are true fee-only advisors. If you are vetting an advisor who is not a member of NAPFA, simply ask your prospective advisor to just sign a fiduciary agreement. NAPFA has a template on their website that you can use.
Remember, no one will care more about your money than you. Next in Part 3, we'll go over what real FAs do.
Do you know how your Financial Advisor is paid?
This is Part 1 of a 5 part series on Financial Advisors:
Part 2 – “What the F? – fee-only vs. fee-based and the fiduciary”
Part 3 – What's the difference between a financial advisor and planner?
Part 4 – How to find and vet a financial advisor
Part 5 – I fired my financial advisor
There is a lot of confusion and distrust around Financial Advisors. It doesn’t help that there are several reasons why your beliefs are justified.
First, anyone can call themselves a Financial Advisor. Did you know that? I can. You can. Just tell people you are and people will believe you. OK, well isn’t there a license real FAs need to get? Sort of. In some ways, this is one of the most highly regulated professional fields you can find. But people have found ways to get around the regulations, and that is what you need to understand. There are over 100 official “license” designations and “financial advisor” is not one of those designations, just a description that anybody can use to describe themselves.

It’s not that different from non-dermatologists calling themselves dermatologists. In fact, there are doctors who trained in family medicine or internal medicine who literally take a test and pay a fee to get a bogus certification without formal training. How can the public really know the difference since both can say they are “board certified”?
The American Board of Dermatology (ABD) is the official body certifying dermatologists. This requires 4 years of formal residency training (after successful completion of medical school) followed by a board certification exam. Like all other specialities, annual continuing education and other measures are required to maintain certification. Throughout residency I had to prove I attained certain milestones and underwent biannual evaluations to ensure I would practice dermatology safely. Again, unless you are a “real” physician, how can you possibly know the difference?
There is no official “Financial Advisor board.” Some, just like the sham dermatology board I mentioned above, simply require a test and a fee. Some don’t even require a test! The good news is that there are only 3 that I believe really matter.
- Certified Financial Planner™ or CFP®
This is probably the most recognized certification for financial planners. The CFP® Board of Standards governs CFPs. A CFP requires: a college degree, completion of a series of courses that cover 6 areas of planning and ethics, 3 years of experience in financial planning, passing a background check and passing a 10 hour exam. Just like doctors, CFPs must complete annual continuing education and renew their licenses every 2 years. The CFP emphasizes the importance of the financial plan in addition to managing investments.
- Chartered Financial Consultant or ChFC
ChFCs was introduced as an alternative to CFPs for insurance-focused professionals. The main difference between ChFCs and CFPs is that ChFCs do not need to have a college degree or pass a comprehensive exam. This is a popular designation for insurance professionals.
- Certified Public Accountant/Personal Finance Specialist or CPA/PFS
A CPA in good standing can get the companion designation PFS by completing 75 hours of personal finance education and experience, passing an exam, and paying a fee.
Stay tuned for Part 2 – “What the F? – fee-only vs. fee-based and the fiduciary”.
If you work for a large healthcare provider, you may have access to a 457(b) retirement account in addition to a 401(k)/403(b). Are you using it? Maybe yes, maybe no. You might want to use your hospital's 457(b).
Here's why:
The Benefits of Your Hospital's 457(b)
- Tax benefits! With your hospital's 457(b), you can invest an additional tax deferred $19,000 annually (in 2019). This escalates to $24,000 annually if you are over 50. Why do this? This lowers your taxable income. Like a 401(k), you pay income tax when you withdraw. Some 457(b)s even offer a Roth option.
- Flexibility! In addition, you can withdraw this money before age 59.5. This is great if you are planning early retirement. Why? Unlike the 401(k)/403(b)/and most IRAs, you'll have access to your money earlier.
Understanding The Types of 457(b)s
There are 2 types of 457(b)s and it's important to know which type your employer offers. There are governmental (or public) and non-governmental (or private) 457(b)s.
Governmental 457(b) Options
If you have a governmental 457(b), this is a “no-brainer”. You should use it if you need more tax advantaged space to save in. Of course, this also depends on if the plan costs and fund choices are agreeable. Public 457(b)s can be rolled over into an IRA or 403(b)/401K(k) when you leave the job.
Private 457(b) Options
Private 457(b)s are different story. The money you deposit technically belongs to your employer and can be used to pay off employer's creditors. This is only an issue if your hospital goes under. A good way to see if your hospital is afloat is to check their credit rating. I know this sounds scary but as far as I know, no one has lost their 457(b).
Exploring Your Hospital 457(b) Plan Options
The next step is to find out what the distribution options (if there are any) are when you leave the job.
Some plans make you take out one lump sum on separation. This is a lousy option, and I would hesitate using it.
You want multiple options. Preferably, you can defer distribution until retirement age and take money over time to control your taxable income. The main “con” of a private 457(b) is that you can only roll it into another private 457(b). Another catch is this. Your new private 457(b) would have to accept rollovers, and they don't have to.
Your best bet is to always get a copy of your employer's 457(b) plan as details can differ widely.
Final Thoughts on Your Hospital's 457(b) Plan
A 457(b) is a way to have access to your money before age 59.5 besides a taxable account
Your retirement savings plan should include different types of accounts to diversify. A 457(b) is a way to have access to your money before age 59.5 besides a taxable account.
I am using my hospital's private 457(b) account. I almost maxed it out last year ($16K) and will be maxing it out this year. My 457(b) plan is low cost and has a limited fund list but does include some basic Vanguard funds. Fortunately, the distribution options are very flexible so upon leaving this job, I can defer distribution until retirement age.
Since this post went live, I left the hospital job. I chose to cash out my 457(b) despite being able to leave it there indefinitely. Why? I wanted total control over the money. Yes I paid income taxes on it. I promptly deposited the check into my Vanguard taxable brokerage account. With the changing and unstable landscape of medicine, I do not want to depend on the hospital staying afloat.
No matter where you are in your career or where you are on your retirement journey, inquire about your 457(b) plan that your hospital offers. You might be able to get your hands on some serious tax-time benefits and add more flexibility to your retirement plan.
Does your job offer a 457(b)? Do you use it? Why or why not?
This post is sponsored by Lawrence Keller, CFP®, CLU®, ChFC®, RHU®, LUTCF, an independent agent for several insurance companies. He has earned his reputation as the “go-to” agent for life and disability insurance for doctors and other high–income professionals. If you wish to contact him you can call (516) 677-6211 or email [email protected]
Do you have life insurance? You need to unless you'll never have dependents – children, a spouse, parents perhaps. One of my mantras is to insure yourself against the top 4 financial catastrophes – death, disability, divorce, and liability.
There's a lot of confusion as to what life insurance product to buy, how much to buy, and for how long. For the overwhelming majority, term life insurance is the right product. Term life insurance is a product where you buy a certain amount for a certain amount of time (or term). If you die during the term, your beneficiaries receive the amount purchased tax-free. Typical terms are 10, 20 or 30 years.
You can also “ladder” policies meaning that you stack multiple policies with varying terms. For example, you purchase three policies: $1 million x 10 years, $1 million x 20 years, and $1 million x 30 years. If you die in the first 10 years, your beneficiaries receive $3 million, if you die in the 2nd 10 years they get $2 million(as the $1 million x 10 years policy has expired), and if you die in the 3rd 10 years, they get $1 million.
You could just buy one $3 million x 30 year term but this is a lot more expensive and likely not necessary. The reason to decrease the payout amount over time is because your wealth will build and you will have enough to self-insure (retirement accounts, cash savings, debt elimination). Many factors determine your rate, here are a few:
- Gender
- Age
- Health – personal and family medical history (cardiac disease, cancer)
- Smoking status
- Activities – rock-climbing, skydiving enthusiast, etc
How to buy term life insurance:
1. Determine how much you need and for how long The amount you need depends on what you want the life insurance money to be used for. If you die, you want enough money to cover funeral costs, any debts (mortgage, student loans, etc.), kids' childcare and college costs, or any other dependents that rely on your income. If you're married, do not underestimate the toll your death will take on your partner and other dependents; they may need to take some time off and get things in order. Wouldn't you want to give your partner (and kids) the time and freedom to do that? Also keep in mind that inflation will eat away at the amount as well. A good starting point is 7-10x of your income. For those who are divorced and have to cover multiple family interests please consult any divorce decree requirements and factor those requirements in as well. A sample calculation for someone who makes $250K:
- $500K mortgage
- 2 kids, $250K each for college
- Funeral costs $10K
- Income loss for remaining partner: depends if they work or not. Even if they work, their lifestyle and budget likely included your income too. So let's say you'll want $100K per year to reflect that (remember this money is tax-free). So this comes out to $1 million for every 10 year term.
This comes out to just over 2 million for a 10 year term. This amount may decrease as you build up retirement and other savings, 529 accounts, etc. Using the 7-10x rule of thumb this amount falls in that range ($1.75 to 2.5 million). A stay at home spouse needs to be insured as well. You may have heard that life insurance is only needed for those that make income. But a stay at home spouse is providing childcare and likely other household duties. You'll want to account for how much childcare would cost in the event of their death.
2. Get an idea of how much it will cost on www.term4sale.com You'll see that the price of the policy will differ widely depending on whether you are female or male, the term amount, the dollar amount, and health class.
3. Talk to a broker or agent You want to work with an independent agent or broker vs. an agent that only represents one company. If you are working with a financial advisor it is wise to reach out and receive their input as well.
4. Seriously consider purchasing disability insurance if you don't have it already to save you another work-up. You will likely need medical underwriting to determine your health class. This involves blood work and a physical exam. These can also be used for disability insurance so that you don't need to repeat this again if you apply for it within a year (generally speaking).
Other caveats:
- If you're a woman, I strongly recommend purchasing some as early as possible if you know you'll want children. If you wait until you're pregnant you may get dinged with a rider that any pregnancy related death won't be covered (same applies for disability insurance), or you may develop a pregnancy related condition such as gestational diabetes that will ding your health rating from the top class to the 3rd or 4th class. This will result in a significant increase of your annual premium. For example a 35 year old who applies for a $2 million x 30 year term would go from an annual premium of $1,265 to $2,105 if she develops gestational diabetes (numbers for Prudential).
- Same advice applies to men since life insurance premiums are higher for men. This stuff is already cheap and cheaper the younger and healthier you are. You'll never be as young and healthier than now.
- Banner (William Penn in NY) offers laddering within one policy vs. buying multiple policies to form a ladder. This saves you about $60 per policy bought.
- You may hear of a “Waiver of Premium Rider”. This waives the premium on a term life insurance policy if the insured is disabled. Unless the insured plans on converting their term policy to Whole Life (and most insureds won't), one should not consider this rider as it can, generally, add 10-25% to the cost of the annual premium. I would recommend just getting enough disability insurance instead.
I've purchased 2 policies: $1 million x 20 year term, bought at age 38 (Banner, $496/year) with preferred health plus rating (the highest health rating). I also have $1 million x 15 year term bought at age 39 (William Penn, $382/year). And yes, I bought both from Lawrence Keller.
There is a lot of confusion about Roths – Roth IRAs, Roth conversions, Roth 403(b)s and Roth 401(k)s. They are all different but share a common theme – tax-free growth and tax-free income on withdrawals. Who is this Roth person anyway??
I'm going to mainly focus on Roth IRAs here. The Roth IRA is a tax-advantaged retirement vehicle where a person can contribute $5,500 ($6,500 if age 50 and over) per year. The contribution is with after-tax dollars. Once inside the Roth IRA, the money grows tax-free and is not considered income when you withdraw the money – so it is tax-free on withdrawal.
I love the Roth IRA because:
- No RMDs (required minimum distributions). If you die and your spouse inherits your Roth IRA, still no RMDs. All other retirement accounts, including the ones with the word Roth in it are subject to them.
- You can open one for your spouse, even if she/he does not have earned income
- Not part of the taxable estate
- You can still contribute to it after age 70.5 if you're still working whereas you can't after that age to a traditional IRA.
The only major con of Roth IRAs is that you don't get an immediate tax break on the contribution. It is also possible that congress may decide to tax these accounts or place a limit on how much can be in a Roth IRA.
You may have heard that once you make over a certain amount that you can't contribute to one (in 2017 – phase out starts at $118K single, $186 married filing jointly). There is a loophole to get around this. You contribute $5,500 to a non-deductible traditional IRA (TIRA), wait 1-2 days, then “convert” it to a Roth IRA. It is legal. BUT, and this is a big but, you cannot do this without tax consequences if you have have a non-zero balance in any other IRA accounts (traditional IRA, rollover IRAs from prior 401(k)s, SEP-IRA). It's called the pro-rata rule. There are easy ways to zero out these accounts to take advantage of the backdoor Roth IRA:
- If you have a non-deductible (after-tax) TIRA, you can convert the entire account to a Roth IRA and pay taxes on the gains only.
- If you have a pre-tax IRA, including a SEP-IRA, you'll need to roll this into a 403(b), 401(k) or ideally a solo-401(k). You need 1099 income to open a solo-401(k).
Here is a great step-by-step tutorial on how to do the backdoor Roth IRA. If you have your Roth IRA at Vanguard, then look at this guide by PoF. My Roth IRA is at Vanguard and currently contains a REIT (VGSIX) and Small-Cap Value fund (VSIAX). Due to the tax free growth & withdrawal you'll want to put in more aggressive and/or less tax-efficient funds in here.
Backdoor Roth IRAs are often confused for Roth Conversions, especially since the backdoor Roth IRA includes a conversion from a TIRA to a Roth IRA. Roth conversions is a strategy to convert pre-tax retirement accounts (deductible TIRA, 401(k), 403(b)) to a Roth IRA. Then this money has the same benefits of being inside a Roth IRA above. The downside? You pay taxes on it at your marginal rate. You do Roth conversions in a low income year like the year you retire.


